IT had chanced (as the CASCO beat through the Bordelais Straits for Taahauku)
she approached on one board very near the land in the opposite isle of Tauata,
where houses were to be seen in a grove of tall coco-palms. Brother Michel
pointed out the spot. 'I am at home now,' said he. 'I believe I have a large
share in these cocoa-nuts; and in that house madame my mother lives with her two
husbands!' 'With two husbands?' somebody inquired. 'C'EST MA HONTE,' replied the
brother drily.
A word in passing on the two husbands. I conceive the brother to have
expressed himself loosely. It seems common enough to find a native lady with two
consorts; but these are not two husbands. The first is still the husband; the
wife continues to be referred to by his name; and the position of the coadjutor,
or PIKIO, although quite regular, appears undoubtedly subordinate. We had
opportunities to observe one household of the sort. The PIKIO was recognised;
appeared openly along with the husband when the lady was thought to be insulted,
and the pair made common cause like brothers. At home the inequality was more
apparent. The husband sat to receive and entertain visitors; the PIKIO was
running the while to fetch cocoa-nuts like a hired servant, and I remarked he
was sent on these errands in preference even to the son. Plainly we have here no
second husband; plainly we have the tolerated lover. Only, in the Marquesas,
instead of carrying his lady's fan and mantle, he must turn his hand to do the
husband's housework.
The sight of Brother Michel's family estate led the conversation for some
while upon the method and consequence of artificial kinship. Our curiosity
became extremely whetted; the brother offered to have the whole of us adopted,
and some two days later we became accordingly the children of Paaaeua, appointed
chief of Atuona. I was unable to be present at the ceremony, which was
primitively simple. The two Mrs. Stevensons and Mr. Osbourne, along with
Paaaeua, his wife, and an adopted child of theirs, son of a shipwrecked
Austrian, sat down to an excellent island meal, of which the principal and the
only necessary dish was pig. A concourse watched them through the apertures of
the house; but none, not even Brother Michel, might partake; for the meal was
sacramental, and either creative or declaratory of the new relationship. In
Tahiti things are not so strictly ordered; when Ori and I 'made brothers,' both
our families sat with us at table, yet only he and I, who had eaten with
intention were supposed to be affected by the ceremony. For the adoption of an
infant I believe no formality to be required; the child is handed over by the
natural parents, and grows up to inherit the estates of the adoptive. Presents
are doubtless exchanged, as at all junctures of island life, social or
international; but I never heard of any banquet - the child's presence at the
daily board perhaps sufficing. We may find the rationale in the ancient Arabian
idea that a common diet makes a common blood, with its derivative axiom that 'he
is the father who gives the child its morning draught.' In the Marquesan
practice, the sense would thus be evanescent; from the Tahitian, a mere
survival, it will have entirely fled. An interesting parallel will probably
occur to many of my readers.
What is the nature of the obligation assumed at such a festival? It will vary
with the characters of those engaged, and with the circumstances of the case.
Thus it would be absurd to take too seriously our adoption at Atuona. On the
part of Paaaeua it was an affair of social ambition; when he agreed to receive
us in his family the man had not so much as seen us, and knew only that we were
inestimably rich and travelled in a floating palace. We, upon our side, ate of
his baked meats with no true ANIMUS AFFILIANDI, but moved by the single
sentiment of curiosity. The affair was formal, and a matter of parade, as when
in Europe sovereigns call each other cousin. Yet, had we stayed at Atuona,
Paaaeua would have held himself bound to establish us upon his land, and to set
apart young men for our service, and trees for our support. I have mentioned the
Austrian. He sailed in one of two sister ships, which left the Clyde in coal;
both rounded the Horn, and both, at several hundred miles of distance, though
close on the same point of time, took fire at sea on the Pacific. One was
destroyed; the derelict iron frame of the second, after long, aimless cruising,
was at length recovered, refitted, and hails to-day from San Francisco. A boat's
crew from one of these disasters reached, after great hardships, the isle of
Hiva-oa. Some of these men vowed they would never again confront the chances of
the sea; but alone of them all the Austrian has been exactly true to his
engagement, remains where he landed, and designs to die where he has lived. Now,
with such a man, falling and taking root among islanders, the processes
described may be compared to a gardener's graft. He passes bodily into the
native stock; ceases wholly to be alien; has entered the commune of the blood,
shares the prosperity and consideration of his new family, and is expected to
impart with the same generosity the fruits of his European skill and knowledge.
It is this implied engagement that so frequently offends the ingrafted white. To
snatch an immediate advantage - to get (let us say) a station for his store - he
will play upon the native custom and become a son or a brother for the day,
promising himself to cast down the ladder by which he shall have ascended, and
repudiate the kinship so soon as it shall grow burdensome. And he finds there
are two parties to the bargain. Perhaps his Polynesian relative is simple, and
conceived the blood-bond literally; perhaps he is shrewd, and himself entered
the covenant with a view to gain. And either way the store is ravaged, the house
littered with lazy natives; and the richer the man grows, the more numerous, the
more idle, and the more affectionate he finds his native relatives. Most men
thus circumstanced contrive to buy or brutally manage to enforce their
independence; but many vegetate without hope, strangled by parasites.
We had no cause to blush with Brother Michel. Our new parents were kind,
gentle, well-mannered, and generous in gifts; the wife was a most motherly
woman, the husband a man who stood justly high with his employers. Enough has
been said to show why Moipu should be deposed; and in Paaaeua the French had
found a reputable substitute. He went always scrupulously dressed, and looked
the picture of propriety, like a dark, handsome, stupid, and probably religious
young man hot from a European funeral. In character he seemed the ideal of what
is known as the good citizen. He wore gravity like an ornament. None could more
nicely represent the desired character as an appointed chief, the outpost of
civilisation and reform. And yet, were the French to go and native manners to
revive, fancy beholds him crowned with old men's beards and crowding with the
first to a man-eating festival. But I must not seem to be unjust to Paaaeua. His
respectability went deeper than the skin; his sense of the becoming sometimes
nerved him for unexpected rigours.
One evening Captain Otis and Mr. Osbourne were on shore in the village. All
was agog; dancing had begun; it was plain it was to be a night of festival, and
our adventurers were overjoyed at their good fortune. A strong fall of rain
drove them for shelter to the house of Paaaeua, where they were made welcome,
wiled into a chamber, and shut in. Presently the rain took off, the fun was to
begin in earnest, and the young bloods of Atuona came round the house and called
to my fellow-travellers through the interstices of the wall. Late into the night
the calls were continued and resumed, and sometimes mingled with taunts; late
into the night the prisoners, tantalised by the noises of the festival, renewed
their efforts to escape. But all was vain; right across the door lay that
god-fearing householder, Paaaeua, feigning sleep; and my friends had to forego
their junketing. In this incident, so delightfully European, we thought we could
detect three strands of sentiment. In the first place, Paaaeua had a charge of
souls: these were young men, and he judged it right to withhold them from the
primrose path. Secondly, he was a public character, and it was not fitting that
his guests should countenance a festival of which he disapproved. So might some
strict clergyman at home address a worldly visitor: 'Go to the theatre if you
like, but, by your leave, not from my house!' Thirdly, Paaaeua was a man
jealous, and with some cause (as shall be shown) for jealousy; and the feasters
were the satellites of his immediate rival, Moipu.
For the adoption had caused much excitement in the village; it made the
strangers popular. Paaaeua, in his difficult posture of appointed chief, drew
strength and dignity from their alliance, and only Moipu and his followers were
malcontent. For some reason nobody (except myself) appears to dislike Moipu.
Captain Hart, who has been robbed and threatened by him; Father Orens, whom he
has fired at, and repeatedly driven to the woods; my own family, and even the
French officials - all seemed smitten with an irrepressible affection for the
man. His fall had been made soft; his son, upon his death, was to succeed
Paaaeua in the chieftaincy; and he lived, at the time of our visit, in the
shoreward part of the village in a good house, and with a strong following of
young men, his late braves and pot-hunters. In this society, the coming of the
CASCO, the adoption, the return feast on board, and the presents exchanged
between the whites and their new parents, were doubtless eagerly and bitterly
canvassed. It was felt that a few years ago the honours would have gone
elsewhere. In this unwonted business, in this reception of some hitherto
undreamed-of and outlandish potentate - some Prester John or old Assaracus - a
few years back it would have been the part of Moipu to play the hero and the
host, and his young men would have accompanied and adorned the various
celebrations as the acknowledged leaders of society. And now, by a malign
vicissitude of fortune, Moipu must sit in his house quite unobserved; and his
young men could but look in at the door while their rivals feasted. Perhaps M.
Grevy felt a touch of bitterness towards his successor when he beheld him figure
on the broad stage of the centenary of eighty-nine; the visit of the CASCO which
Moipu had missed by so few years was a more unusual occasion in Atuona than a
centenary in France; and the dethroned chief determined to reassert himself in
the public eye.
Mr. Osbourne had gone into Atuona photographing; the population of the
village had gathered together for the occasion on the place before the church,
and Paaaeua, highly delighted with this new appearance of his family, played the
master of ceremonies. The church had been taken, with its jolly architect before
the door; the nuns with their pupils; sundry damsels in the ancient and
singularly unbecoming robes of tapa; and Father Orens in the midst of a group of
his parishioners. I know not what else was in hand, when the photographer became
aware of a sensation in the crowd, and, looking around, beheld a very noble
figure of a man appear upon the margin of a thicket and stroll nonchalantly
near. The nonchalance was visibly affected; it was plain he came there to arouse
attention, and his success was instant. He was introduced; he was civil, he was
obliging, he was always ineffably superior and certain of himself; a well-graced
actor. It was presently suggested that he should appear in his war costume; he
gracefully consented; and returned in that strange, inappropriate and ill-
omened array (which very well became his handsome person) to strut in a circle
of admirers, and be thenceforth the centre of photography. Thus had Moipu
effected his introduction, as by accident, to the white strangers, made it a
favour to display his finery, and reduced his rival to a secondary ROLE on the
theatre of the disputed village. Paaaeua felt the blow; and, with a spirit which
we never dreamed he could possess, asserted his priority. It was found
impossible that day to get a photograph of Moipu alone; for whenever he stood up
before the camera his successor placed himself unbidden by his side, and gently
but firmly held to his position. The portraits of the pair, Jacob and Esau,
standing shoulder to shoulder, one in his careful European dress, one in his
barbaric trappings, figure the past and present of their island. A graveyard
with its humble crosses would be the aptest symbol of the future.
We are all impressed with the belief that Moipu had planned his campaign from
the beginning to the end. It is certain that he lost no time in pushing his
advantage. Mr. Osbourne was inveigled to his house; various gifts were fished
out of an old sea-chest; Father Orens was called into service as interpreter,
and Moipu formally proposed to 'make brothers' with Mata-Galahi - Glass-Eyes, -
the not very euphonious name under which Mr. Osbourne passed in the Marquesas.
The feast of brotherhood took place on board the CASCO. Paaaeua had arrived with
his family, like a plain man; and his presents, which had been numerous, had
followed one another, at intervals through several days. Moipu, as if to mark at
every point the opposition, came with a certain feudal pomp, attended by
retainers bearing gifts of all descriptions, from plumes of old men's beard to
little, pious, Catholic engravings.
I had met the man before this in the village, and detested him on sight;
there was something indescribably raffish in his looks and ways that raised my
gorge; and when man-eating was referred to, and he laughed a low, cruel laugh,
part boastful, part bashful, like one reminded of some dashing peccadillo, my
repugnance was mingled with nausea. This is no very human attitude, nor one at
all becoming in a traveller. And, seen more privately, the man improved.
Something negroid in character and face was still displeasing; but his ugly
mouth became attractive when he smiled, his figure and bearing were certainly
noble, and his eyes superb. In his appreciation of jams and pickles, in is
delight in the reverberating mirrors of the dining cabin, and consequent endless
repetition of Moipus and Mata-Galahis, he showed himself engagingly a child. And
yet I am not sure; and what seemed childishness may have been rather courtly
art. His manners struck me as beyond the mark; they were refined and caressing
to the point of grossness, and when I think of the serene absent-mindedness with
which he first strolled in upon our party, and then recall him running on hands
and knees along the cabin sofas, pawing the velvet, dipping into the beds, and
bleating commendatory 'MITAIS' with exaggerated emphasis, like some enormous
over-mannered ape, I feel the more sure that both must have been calculated. And
I sometimes wonder next, if Moipu were quite alone in this polite duplicity, and
ask myself whether the CASCO were quite so much admired in the Marquesas as our
visitors desired us to suppose.
I will complete this sketch of an incurable cannibal grandee with two
incongruous traits. His favourite morsel was the human hand, of which he speaks
to-day with an ill-favoured lustfulness. And when he said good-bye to Mrs.
Stevenson, holding her hand, viewing her with tearful eyes, and chanting his
farewell improvisation in the falsetto of Marquesan high society, he wrote upon
her mind a sentimental impression which I try in vain to share.
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