THE Messenger was one among a crowd of high-pressure
steamboats, clustered together by a wharf-side, which, looked down upon from the
rising ground that forms the landing-place, and backed by the lofty bank on the
opposite side of the river, appeared no larger than so many floating models. She
had some forty passengers on board, exclusive of the poorer persons on the lower
deck; and in half an hour, or less, proceeded on her way.
We had, for ourselves, a tiny state-room with two berths in it, opening out
of the ladies' cabin. There was, undoubtedly, something satisfactory in this
'location,' inasmuch as it was in the stern, and we had been a great many times
very gravely recommended to keep as far aft as possible, 'because the steamboats
generally blew up forward.' Nor was this an unnecessary caution, as the
occurrence and circumstances of more than one such fatality during our stay
sufficiently testified. Apart from this source of self-congratulation, it was an
unspeakable relief to have any place, no matter how confined, where one could be
alone: and as the row of little chambers of which this was one, had each a
second glass-door besides that in the ladies' cabin, which opened on a narrow
gallery outside the vessel, where the other passengers seldom came, and where
one could sit in peace and gaze upon the shifting prospect, we took possession
of our new quarters with much pleasure.
If the native packets I have already described be unlike anything we are in
the habit of seeing on water, these western vessels are still more foreign to
all the ideas we are accustomed to entertain of boats. I hardly know what to
liken them to, or how to describe them.
In the first place, they have no mast, cordage, tackle, rigging, or other
such boat-like gear; nor have they anything in their shape at all calculated to
remind one of a boat's head, stem, sides, or keel. Except that they are in the
water, and display a couple of paddle-boxes, they might be intended, for
anything that appears to the contrary, to perform some unknown service, high and
dry, upon a mountain top. There is no visible deck, even: nothing but a long,
black, ugly roof covered with burnt-out feathery sparks; above which tower two
iron chimneys, and a hoarse escape valve, and a glass steerage-house. Then, in
order as the eye descends towards the water, are the sides, and doors, and
windows of the state- rooms, jumbled as oddly together as though they formed a
small street, built by the varying tastes of a dozen men: the whole is supported
on beams and pillars resting on a dirty barge, but a few inches above the
water's edge: and in the narrow space between this upper structure and this
barge's deck, are the furnace fires and machinery, open at the sides to every
wind that blows, and every storm of rain it drives along its path.
Passing one of these boats at night, and seeing the great body of fire,
exposed as I have just described, that rages and roars beneath the frail pile of
painted wood: the machinery, not warded off or guarded in any way, but doing its
work in the midst of the crowd of idlers and emigrants and children, who throng
the lower deck: under the management, too, of reckless men whose acquaintance
with its mysteries may have been of six months' standing: one feels directly
that the wonder is, not that there should be so many fatal accidents, but that
any journey should be safely made.
Within, there is one long narrow cabin, the whole length of the boat; from
which the state-rooms open, on both sides. A small portion of it at the stern is
partitioned off for the ladies; and the bar is at the opposite extreme. There is
a long table down the centre, and at either end a stove. The washing apparatus
is forward, on the deck. It is a little better than on board the canal boat, but
not much. In all modes of travelling, the American customs, with reference to
the means of personal cleanliness and wholesome ablution, are extremely
negligent and filthy; and I strongly incline to the belief that a considerable
amount of illness is referable to this cause.
We are to be on board the Messenger three days: arriving at Cincinnati
(barring accidents) on Monday morning. There are three meals a day. Breakfast at
seven, dinner at half-past twelve, supper about six. At each, there are a great
many small dishes and plates upon the table, with very little in them; so that
although there is every appearance of a mighty 'spread,' there is seldom really
more than a joint: except for those who fancy slices of beet-root, shreds of
dried beef, complicated entanglements of yellow pickle; maize, Indian corn,
apple-sauce, and pumpkin.
Some people fancy all these little dainties together (and sweet preserves
beside), by way of relish to their roast pig. They are generally those dyspeptic
ladies and gentlemen who eat unheard-of quantities of hot corn bread (almost as
good for the digestion as a kneaded pin-cushion), for breakfast, and for supper.
Those who do not observe this custom, and who help themselves several times
instead, usually suck their knives and forks meditatively, until they have
decided what to take next: then pull them out of their mouths: put them in the
dish; help themselves; and fall to work again. At dinner, there is nothing to
drink upon the table, but great jugs full of cold water. Nobody says anything,
at any meal, to anybody. All the passengers are very dismal, and seem to have
tremendous secrets weighing on their minds. There is no conversation, no
laughter, no cheerfulness, no sociality, except in spitting; and that is done in
silent fellowship round the stove, when the meal is over. Every man sits down,
dull and languid; swallows his fare as if breakfasts, dinners, and suppers, were
necessities of nature never to be coupled with recreation or enjoyment; and
having bolted his food in a gloomy silence, bolts himself, in the same state.
But for these animal observances, you might suppose the whole male portion of
the company to be the melancholy ghosts of departed book-keepers, who had fallen
dead at the desk: such is their weary air of business and calculation.
Undertakers on duty would be sprightly beside them; and a collation of
funeral-baked meats, in comparison with these meals, would be a sparkling
festivity.
The people are all alike, too. There is no diversity of character. They
travel about on the same errands, say and do the same things in exactly the same
manner, and follow in the same dull cheerless round. All down the long table,
there is scarcely a man who is in anything different from his neighbour. It is
quite a relief to have, sitting opposite, that little girl of fifteen with the
loquacious chin: who, to do her justice, acts up to it, and fully identifies
nature's handwriting, for of all the small chatterboxes that ever invaded the
repose of drowsy ladies' cabin, she is the first and foremost. The beautiful
girl, who sits a little beyond her - farther down the table there - married the
young man with the dark whiskers, who sits beyond HER, only last month. They are
going to settle in the very Far West, where he has lived four years, but where
she has never been. They were both overturned in a stage-coach the other day (a
bad omen anywhere else, where overturns are not so common), and his head, which
bears the marks of a recent wound, is bound up still. She was hurt too, at the
same time, and lay insensible for some days; bright as her eyes are, now.
Further down still, sits a man who is going some miles beyond their place of
destination, to 'improve' a newly-discovered copper mine. He carries the village
- that is to be - with him: a few frame cottages, and an apparatus for smelting
the copper. He carries its people too. They are partly American and partly
Irish, and herd together on the lower deck; where they amused themselves last
evening till the night was pretty far advanced, by alternately firing off
pistols and singing hymns.
They, and the very few who have been left at table twenty minutes, rise, and
go away. We do so too; and passing through our little state-room, resume our
seats in the quiet gallery without.
A fine broad river always, but in some parts much wider than in others: and
then there is usually a green island, covered with trees, dividing it into two
streams. Occasionally, we stop for a few minutes, maybe to take in wood, maybe
for passengers, at some small town or village (I ought to say city, every place
is a city here); but the banks are for the most part deep solitudes, overgrown
with trees, which, hereabouts, are already in leaf and very green. For miles,
and miles, and miles, these solitudes are unbroken by any sign of human life or
trace of human footstep; nor is anything seen to move about them but the blue
jay, whose colour is so bright, and yet so delicate, that it looks like a flying
flower. At lengthened intervals a log cabin, with its little space of cleared
land about it, nestles under a rising ground, and sends its thread of blue smoke
curling up into the sky. It stands in the corner of the poor field of wheat,
which is full of great unsightly stumps, like earthy butchers'-blocks. Sometimes
the ground is only just now cleared: the felled trees lying yet upon the soil:
and the log-house only this morning begun. As we pass this clearing, the settler
leans upon his axe or hammer, and looks wistfully at the people from the world.
The children creep out of the temporary hut, which is like a gipsy tent upon the
ground, and clap their hands and shout. The dog only glances round at us, and
then looks up into his master's face again, as if he were rendered uneasy by any
suspension of the common business, and had nothing more to do with pleasurers.
And still there is the same, eternal foreground. The river has washed away its
banks, and stately trees have fallen down into the stream. Some have been there
so long, that they are mere dry, grizzly skeletons. Some have just toppled over,
and having earth yet about their roots, are bathing their green heads in the
river, and putting forth new shoots and branches. Some are almost sliding down,
as you look at them. And some were drowned so long ago, that their bleached arms
start out from the middle of the current, and seem to try to grasp the boat, and
drag it under water.
Through such a scene as this, the unwieldy machine takes its hoarse, sullen
way: venting, at every revolution of the paddles, a loud high-pressure blast;
enough, one would think, to waken up the host of Indians who lie buried in a
great mound yonder: so old, that mighty oaks and other forest trees have struck
their roots into its earth; and so high, that it is a hill, even among the hills
that Nature planted round it. The very river, as though it shared one's feelings
of compassion for the extinct tribes who lived so pleasantly here, in their
blessed ignorance of white existence, hundreds of years ago, steals out of its
way to ripple near this mound: and there are few places where the Ohio sparkles
more brightly than in the Big Grave Creek.
All this I see as I sit in the little stern-gallery mentioned just now.
Evening slowly steals upon the landscape and changes it before me, when we stop
to set some emigrants ashore.
Five men, as many women, and a little girl. All their worldly goods are a
bag, a large chest and an old chair: one, old, high- backed, rush-bottomed
chair: a solitary settler in itself. They are rowed ashore in the boat, while
the vessel stands a little off awaiting its return, the water being shallow.
They are landed at the foot of a high bank, on the summit of which are a few log
cabins, attainable only by a long winding path. It is growing dusk; but the sun
is very red, and shines in the water and on some of the tree-tops, like fire.
The men get out of the boat first; help out the women; take out the bag, the
chest, the chair; bid the rowers 'good-bye;' and shove the boat off for them. At
the first plash of the oars in the water, the oldest woman of the party sits
down in the old chair, close to the water's edge, without speaking a word. None
of the others sit down, though the chest is large enough for many seats. They
all stand where they landed, as if stricken into stone; and look after the boat.
So they remain, quite still and silent: the old woman and her old chair, in the
centre the bag and chest upon the shore, without anybody heeding them all eyes
fixed upon the boat. It comes alongside, is made fast, the men jump on board,
the engine is put in motion, and we go hoarsely on again. There they stand yet,
without the motion of a hand. I can see them through my glass, when, in the
distance and increasing darkness, they are mere specks to the eye: lingering
there still: the old woman in the old chair, and all the rest about her: not
stirring in the least degree. And thus I slowly lose them.
The night is dark, and we proceed within the shadow of the wooded bank, which
makes it darker. After gliding past the sombre maze of boughs for a long time,
we come upon an open space where the tall trees are burning. The shape of every
branch and twig is expressed in a deep red glow, and as the light wind stirs and
ruffles it, they seem to vegetate in fire. It is such a sight as we read of in
legends of enchanted forests: saving that it is sad to see these noble works
wasting away so awfully, alone; and to think how many years must come and go
before the magic that created them will rear their like upon this ground again.
But the time will come; and when, in their changed ashes, the growth of
centuries unborn has struck its roots, the restless men of distant ages will
repair to these again unpeopled solitudes; and their fellows, in cities far
away, that slumber now, perhaps, beneath the rolling sea, will read in language
strange to any ears in being now, but very old to them, of primeval forests
where the axe was never heard, and where the jungled ground was never trodden by
a human foot.
Midnight and sleep blot out these scenes and thoughts: and when the morning
shines again, it gilds the house-tops of a lively city, before whose broad paved
wharf the boat is moored; with other boats, and flags, and moving wheels, and
hum of men around it; as though there were not a solitary or silent rood of
ground within the compass of a thousand miles.
Cincinnati is a beautiful city; cheerful, thriving, and animated. I have not
often seen a place that commends itself so favourably and pleasantly to a
stranger at the first glance as this does: with its clean houses of red and
white, its well-paved roads, and foot-ways of bright tile. Nor does it become
less prepossessing on a closer acquaintance. The streets are broad and airy, the
shops extremely good, the private residences remarkable for their elegance and
neatness. There is something of invention and fancy in the varying styles of
these latter erections, which, after the dull company of the steamboat, is
perfectly delightful, as conveying an assurance that there are such qualities
still in existence. The disposition to ornament these pretty villas and render
them attractive, leads to the culture of trees and flowers, and the laying out
of well-kept gardens, the sight of which, to those who walk along the streets,
is inexpressibly refreshing and agreeable. I was quite charmed with the
appearance of the town, and its adjoining suburb of Mount Auburn: from which the
city, lying in an amphitheatre of hills, forms a picture of remarkable beauty,
and is seen to great advantage.
There happened to be a great Temperance Convention held here on the day after
our arrival; and as the order of march brought the procession under the windows
of the hotel in which we lodged, when they started in the morning, I had a good
opportunity of seeing it. It comprised several thousand men; the members of
various 'Washington Auxiliary Temperance Societies;' and was marshalled by
officers on horseback, who cantered briskly up and down the line, with scarves
and ribbons of bright colours fluttering out behind them gaily. There were bands
of music too, and banners out of number: and it was a fresh, holiday-looking
concourse altogether.
I was particularly pleased to see the Irishmen, who formed a distinct society
among themselves, and mustered very strong with their green scarves; carrying
their national Harp and their Portrait of Father Mathew, high above the people's
heads. They looked as jolly and good-humoured as ever; and, working (here) the
hardest for their living and doing any kind of sturdy labour that came in their
way, were the most independent fellows there, I thought.
The banners were very well painted, and flaunted down the street famously.
There was the smiting of the rock, and the gushing forth of the waters; and
there was a temperate man with 'considerable of a hatchet' (as the
standard-bearer would probably have said), aiming a deadly blow at a serpent
which was apparently about to spring upon him from the top of a barrel of
spirits. But the chief feature of this part of the show was a huge allegorical
device, borne among the ship-carpenters, on one side whereof the steamboat
Alcohol was represented bursting her boiler and exploding with a great crash,
while upon the other, the good ship Temperance sailed away with a fair wind, to
the heart's content of the captain, crew, and passengers.
After going round the town, the procession repaired to a certain appointed
place, where, as the printed programme set forth, it would be received by the
children of the different free schools, 'singing Temperance Songs.' I was
prevented from getting there, in time to hear these Little Warblers, or to
report upon this novel kind of vocal entertainment: novel, at least, to me: but
I found in a large open space, each society gathered round its own banners, and
listening in silent attention to its own orator. The speeches, judging from the
little I could hear of them, were certainly adapted to the occasion, as having
that degree of relationship to cold water which wet blankets may claim: but the
main thing was the conduct and appearance of the audience throughout the day;
and that was admirable and full of promise.
Cincinnati is honourably famous for its free schools, of which it has so many
that no person's child among its population can, by possibility, want the means
of education, which are extended, upon an average, to four thousand pupils,
annually. I was only present in one of these establishments during the hours of
instruction. In the boys' department, which was full of little urchins (varying
in their ages, I should say, from six years old to ten or twelve), the master
offered to institute an extemporary examination of the pupils in algebra; a
proposal, which, as I was by no means confident of my ability to detect mistakes
in that science, I declined with some alarm. In the girls' school, reading was
proposed; and as I felt tolerably equal to that art, I expressed my willingness
to hear a class. Books were distributed accordingly, and some half-dozen girls
relieved each other in reading paragraphs from English History. But it seemed to
be a dry compilation, infinitely above their powers; and when they had blundered
through three or four dreary passages concerning the Treaty of Amiens, and other
thrilling topics of the same nature (obviously without comprehending ten words),
I expressed myself quite satisfied. It is very possible that they only mounted
to this exalted stave in the Ladder of Learning for the astonishment of a
visitor; and that at other times they keep upon its lower rounds; but I should
have been much better pleased and satisfied if I had heard them exercised in
simpler lessons, which they understood.
As in every other place I visited, the judges here were gentlemen of high
character and attainments. I was in one of the courts for a few minutes, and
found it like those to which I have already referred. A nuisance cause was
trying; there were not many spectators; and the witnesses, counsel, and jury,
formed a sort of family circle, sufficiently jocose and snug.
The society with which I mingled, was intelligent, courteous, and agreeable.
The inhabitants of Cincinnati are proud of their city as one of the most
interesting in America: and with good reason: for beautiful and thriving as it
is now, and containing, as it does, a population of fifty thousand souls, but
two-and-fifty years have passed away since the ground on which it stands (bought
at that time for a few dollars) was a wild wood, and its citizens were but a
handful of dwellers in scattered log huts upon the river's shore.
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