春天在心裡歌唱 第22章 這就是紐約 (1)
    HereIsNewYork

    埃爾文·布魯克斯·懷特/ElwynBrooksWhite

    Onanypersonwhodesiressuchqueerprizes,NewYorkwillbestowthegiftoflonelinessandthegiftofprivacy.Itisthislargessthataccountsforthepresencewithinthecity』swallsofaconsiderablesectionofthepopulation;fortheresidentsofManhattanaretoalargeextentstrangerswhohavepulledupstakessomewhereandcometotown,seekingsanctuaryorfulf?illmentorsomegreaterorlessergrail.ThecapacitytomakesuchdubiousgiftsisamysteriousqualityofNewYork.Itcandestroyanindividual,oritcanfulf?illhim,dependingagooddealonluck.NooneshouldcometoNewYorktoliveunlessheiswillingtobelucky.

    NewYorkistheconcentrateofartandcommerceandsportandreligionandentertainmentandf?inance,bringingtoasinglecompactarenathegladiator,theevangelist,thepromoter,theactor,thetrader,andthemerchant.Itcarriesonitslapeltheunexpungeableodorofthelongpast,sothatnomatterwhereyousitinNewYorkyoufeelthevibrationsofgreattimesandtalldeeds,ofqueerpeopleandeventsandundertakings.Iamsittingatthemomentinastif?linghotelroomin90-degreeheat,halfwaydownanairshaft,inmidtown.Noairmovesinoroutoftheroom,yetIamcuriouslyaffectedbyemanationsfromtheimmediatesurroundings.Iamtwenty-twoblocksfromwhereRudolphValentinolayinstate,eightblocksfromwhereNathanHalewasexecuted,f?iveblocksfromthepublisher』soff?icewhereErnestHemingwayhitMaxEastmanonthenose,fourmilefromwhereWaltWhitmansatsweatingouteditorialsfortheBrooklynEagle,thirty-fourblocksfromthestreetWillaCatherlivedinwhenshecametoNewYorktowritebooksaboutNebraska,oneblockfromwhereMarcelineusedtoclownontheboardsoftheHippodrome,thirty-sixblocksfromthespotwherethehistorianJoeGouldkickedaradiotopiecesinfullviewofthepublic,thirteenblocksfromwhereHarryThawshotStanfordWhites,f?iveblocksformwhereIusedtousherattheMetropolitanOperaandonly112blocksfromthespotwhereClarenceDaytheElderwasWashedofhissinsintheChurchoftheEpiphany(Icouldcontinuethislistindef?initely);andforthatmatterIamprobablyoccupyingtheveryroomthatanynumberofexaltedandsomewisememorablecharacterssatin,someofthemonhot,breathlessafternoons,lonelyandprivateandfulloftheirownsenseofemanationsfromwithout.

    WhenIwentdowntolunchafewminutesagoInoticedthatthemansittingnexttome(abouteighteeninchesawayalongthewall)wasFredStone.TheeighteenincheswereboththeconnectionandtheseparationthatNewYorkprovidesforitsinhabitants.MyonlyconnectionwithFredStonewasthatIsawhiminTheWizardofOzaroundthebeginningofthecentury.ButourwaiterfeltthesamestimulusfrombeingclosetoamanfromOz,andafterMr.Stonelefttheroomthewaitertoldmethatwhenhe(thewaiter)wasayoungmanjustarrivedinthiscountryandbeforehecouldunderstandawordofEnglish,hehadtakenhisgirlfortheirf?irsttheaterdatetoTheWizardofOz.Itwasawonderfulshow,thewaiterrecalled—amanofstraw,amanoftin.Wonderful!(Andstillonlyeighteeninchesaway.)「Mr.Stoneisaveryheartyeater,」saidthewaiterthoughtfully,contentwiththisfragileparticipationindestiny,thislinkwithOz.

    NewYorkblendsthegiftofprivacywiththeexcitementofparticipation;andbetterthanmostdensecommunitiesitsucceedsininsulatingtheindividual(ifhewantsit,andalmosteverybodywantsorneedsit)againstallenormousandviolentandwonderfuleventsthataretakingplaceeveryminute.SinceIhavebeensittinginthismiasmicairshaft,agoodmanyrathersplashyeventshaveoccurredintown.Amanshotandkilledhiswifeinaf?itofjealousy.Itcausednostiroutsidehisblockandgotonlysmallmentioninthepapers.Ididnotattend.Sincemyarrival,thegreatestairshoweverstagedinalltheworldtookplaceintown.Ididn』tattendandneitherdidmostoftheeightmillionotherinhabitants,althoughtheysaytherewasquiteacrowd.Ididn』tevenhearanyplanesexceptacoupleofwestboundcommercialairlinersthathabituallyusethisairshafttof?lyover.ThebiggestoceangoingshipsontheNorthAtlanticarrivedanddeparted.Ididn』tnoticethemandneitherdidmostotherNewYorkers.Iamtoldthisisthegreatestseaportintheworld,with650milesofwaterfront,andshipscallingherefrommanyexoticlands,buttheonlyboatI』vehappenedtonoticesincemyarrivalwasasmallslooptackingoutoftheEastRivernightbeforelastontheebbtiewhenIwaswalkingacrosstheBrooklynBridge.IheardtheQueenMaryblowonemidnight,though,andthesoundcarriedthewholehistoryofdepartureandlongingandloss.TheLionshavebeeninconvention.I'veseennotoneLion.Afriendsawoneandtoldmeabouthim.(Hewaslame,andwaswearingabolero.)Attheballgroundsandhorseparksthegreatestsportingspectacleshavebeenenacted.Isawnoballplayer,noracehorse.Thegovernorcametotown.Iheardthesirenscream,butthatwasalltherewastothat—aneighteen-inchmarginagain.Amanwaskilledbyafallingcornice.Iwasnotapartytothetragedy,andagaintheinchescountedheavily.
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